Looking for a good container wax

joanncat18 · Member

Looking for a good container wax

joanncat18 · Member

Oh I also would love more of a one-pour...but it's not a necesity if there is a better wax out there for me. Thanks.

hiamps · Moderator

Hi Joanncat,
I think our J-60 wax would work great for you. It is a single pour with great adheasion and a smooth creamy top. The scent throw is great hot or cold. The main drawback with this wax is that it is very soft and only comes in 45lb boxes, it is a Paraffin. The accu-soy 6 is a very good single pour with good adheasion, it is a Soy/Paraffin blend. Remember when trying our waxes, pour hot like around 170-180 F . Our waxes are made to be high quaility but also for production to cut down time.
The Accu-par 30 is a good wax for tarts as it can hold a lot of scent if not wicking, we put ours in the freezer for a couple minutes and they fall right out of the molds. If you talk with Renee she should be able to help more.

joanncat18 · Member

I did end up getting the Acu para 30 to sample. So do you think the Acu para 6 or J60 would be more like what I am looking for?? I am just now testing my first candles made from the Acu Para 30. Trying different wicks, but what would you suggest in wicking this??

Spoonybard · Newbie

Hi!! I am also testing AS#6 and #30... I seem to be having trouble with dips around the wick and with the wax tending to creep up around the wick. I am heating to 180 and pouring at 160-165. Should I be doing something different? I really don't like using the heat gun as it never leaves the tops looking as nice.

joanncat18 · Member

I have had nice flat tops and no problems with sink holes or having to repour. I am using the Acu para 30 in 10 oz apothecary jars. The problem I am having is finding a wick that will work well for this wax in this size jar. I am currently testing, but having a lot of wax hang up on the sides and some sooting. I am using 6% FO, 7 drops per lb of liquid dye. I pour at around 165 degrees but I hit the jars with the heat gun prior to pouring...if you just heat the jars in the oven or with a heat gun first then you won't have as much of a problem with the tops. How does the acu para 6 work for you compared to the 30? I have been trying to steer clear of a pure soy, but having a blend seems ok for me.
I wonder if I will find a wick to work in this jar...any suggestions? Maybe I will have to double wick? I really do not want to do that. I will probably buy a new jar before I will consider double wicking.
Spoonybard- If you don't know about the craft server forum, you should come join us over there. There is a TON of info on candle/soap making...I have learned a lot very quickly there. It's www.craftserver.com

Spoonybard · Newbie

joanncat18 wrote:

I have had nice flat tops and no problems with sink holes or having to repour. I am using the Acu para 30 in 10 oz apothecary jars. The problem I am having is finding a wick that will work well for this wax in this size jar. I am currently testing, but having a lot of wax hang up on the sides and some sooting. I am using 6% FO, 7 drops per lb of liquid dye. I pour at around 165 degrees but I hit the jars with the heat gun prior to pouring...if you just heat the jars in the oven or with a heat gun first then you won't have as much of a problem with the tops. How does the acu para 6 work for you compared to the 30? I have been trying to steer clear of a pure soy, but having a blend seems ok for me.
I wonder if I will find a wick to work in this jar...any suggestions? Maybe I will have to double wick? I really do not want to do that. I will probably buy a new jar before I will consider double wicking.
Spoonybard- If you don't know about the craft server forum, you should come join us over there. There is a TON of info on candle/soap making...I have learned a lot very quickly there. It's www.craftserver.com

I'm having the same sooting problems with both the #30 and #6... I've tried both 10oz apothecary and elevation jars as well as 3" wide 10oz tumblers. Either the wick leaves too much hang up, or the next size up burns too hot and soots and mushrooms. I have tested this wax without dye or FO and observed mushrooming even then!! I'm stuck!! hmm

I'm on the craftserver forums too!

joanncat18 · Member

Yeah, I think these jars seems kinda hard to wick anyways. Have you tried double wicking? I might do that or I might try a different jar. From reading on craft forum...it seems like a lot of people have to double wick their apothecary jars regardless of wax. They have the issues with wax hang up or the wick is sooting etc. It's frustrating. I know single wicking can be done...but geeze. Who are you on craft server?

Spoonybard · Newbie

I tried double-wicking the #6 with two htp-73s in one jar and htp-83s in another. Both gave me a jar that achieved FMP within the 1st hour and a half of the first test burn, and the FMP was over 1/2 inch deep... jar was VERY hot too! Oh, and this is with both jars -- the wicks were drowning!! disbelief

Prior to this, I was testing single-wicks HTP-126, HTP-1212, CD-16, CDN-18, CDN-20. All of these sooted. I am resistant to double-wicking so I decided to try some 3"-wide tumblers, thinking that the wicking on these would be a LOT easier as they are not too deep and the sides are straight. I tried CD-10, CD-12, HTP-83, HTP-73, HTP-104, LX-20. All of these left me with heavy soot about 1/2 way down the jar, and mushroomed on every burn. Well, the HTP-73 was too small. I'm so confused... I live local to the Swans in California (less than 10 miles away!) and would really like to get either the #6 or #30 to work out. Hoping for some feedback on this forum but it appears rather quiet.

I have the same nickname over on craftserver. biggrin

hiamps · Moderator

Yes our board is pretty quite, we try to get more activity on it and sometimes our email notification doesn't tell us someone has posted. We are still pretty new to message boards.
But- when you are getting the mushrooming and sooting, is that when you do not trim the wick? No matter what wick you are using, after about 4 hours you always have to trim the wick. Even with the "self trimming" wicks, they dont recommend burning it for longer than 4 hours because you need to trim them. I have a 3" round tumbler that I use either the soy 10 or the soy 6 in and I dont get sooting. The only time I do get sooting is when its been burning for 6+ hours and I have not trimmed the wick.

joanncat18 · Member

Nope always trim the wick before each burn (even measured it to get 1/4 inch wicks) and only burned for a few hours at a time. 4" wide apothecary jar. 6% FO, tried 4 types of wicks. So far it works better with a double wick, but really didn't want to go that way.

MikeAnderson · Newbie

candles and a table full of food.The beauty of making candles is that you really only need a few ingredients and few pieces of equipment. You don't need anything fancy although you can buy really nice equipment, the fact is that you make candles with equipment you probably already have.

craftsmaster · Member

Blended paraffin and paraffin waxes

These are probably the types of waxes from which you'll fashion your first project. These are petroleum-based waxes and can be found in a variety of blends. One of the benefits of using this type of medium is it produces an odorless smoke.

The melting point of this wax varies between 104 and 160 degrees. The actual temperature at which the paraffin you buy melts depends in large part on its quality.

Bead wax

Granulated into small beads, this type of wax can be found in a variety of colors and scents. And it has a convenience factor that you may find refreshing.

Beeswax

This natural wax, comes in blocks or sheets. It can also be bought as natural, unbleached or bleached white. Beeswax possesses a natural honey fragrance. And many candle makers like to add it to a paraffin mix base because it lengthens the burning time of the candle.

Gel wax

This is merely clear gel and can be found at just about any local craft store. This is fun to work with because you may drop small decorative items into the gel to make stunningly beautiful and individually tailored gifts for friends and family.

Wax chunks

These chunks come in a broad variety of colors. You can melt these individual pieces when you only need a small portion of wax. Or you can keep them as they are and embed them into a larger candle to make a unique look.

Container candles

Soy's low melting point makes it the ideal wax for container candles. You may want to try your hand initially at creating soy candles in canning jars.